New Champagne Cuvées From Philipponnat And Laurent-Perrier

So many lovely Champagnes, so little time ...

Here are notes on new releases from two of my favorite Champagne houses, Philipponnat and Laurent-Perrier.

Philipponnat (Mareuil-sur-Ay) - One of the few family managed houses in Champagne, Philipponnat dates back to 1522! Located in a small village east of Epernay, the company is overseen by Charles Philipponnat, who has done a masterful job of refining the existing cuvées as well as introducing a Blanc de Noirs, starting with the 2008 vintage. The most famous wine produced at Philipponnat is the Clos des Goisses, from a vineyard a short walk from the cellars. This is one of the two of three most celebrated of all single vineyard Champagnes, and is produced each year; Charles Philipponnat calls this a “true vintage Champagne.” I will review the new release of Clos des Goisses soon; for now, here are notes on two other releases.

Philipponnat Blanc de Noirs 2018 - 100% Pinot Noir; disgorged January 2024, dosage 4.5 g/l. Bright medium-deep yellow; aromas of yellow plum, fig. toast and cereal grains. Medium-full, with very good concentration. There is lively acidity and impressive complexity. The finish is a bit short, however. Enjoy over the next three to four years. (91)

Philipponnat Grand Blanc Extra Brut 2016 - This could be labeled as a Blanc de Blancs, but Philipponnat uses the term Grand Blanc. 100% Chardonnay from Premier and Grand Cru vineyards, including Mareuil-sur-Ay, Vertus and Verzenay; disgorged June 2023; dosage 4.5 g/l. Aromas of pear, lilacs and hints of melon and almond. Medium-full, with impressive concentration, excellent ripeness, very good acidity and significant persistence. There are stylish notes of lemon pulp as well as a delicate nuttiness on the finish. So well balanced, this displays excellent harmony and is absolutely delicious at present. If you are a lover of Blanc de Blancs Champagne, this is a must! Enjoy over the next three to six years, perhaps longer. (93)

Laurent-Perrier (Tours-sur-Marne) - Located in Tours-sur-Marne, east of Epernay, the house of Laurent-Perrier was founded in 1812. The house became famous after the end of World War II, thanks to the vision and leadership of CEO Bernard de Nonancourt. Today the cellar master is Michel Fauconnet, while the face of the company today is Lucie Pereyre de Nonancourt. Their most celebrated cuvée is Grand Siècle, an innovative blend of three vintages that was first produced in 1959, and has only been made 26 times since.

Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature - Bright, medium deep yellow, very fine bubbles; expressive aromas of yeast, pear, white peach and hints of dried yellow flowers. Medium-bodied with impressive richness on the palate, good acidity, very good persistence and a dry finish with delicate notes of citrus. Enjoy over the next four to six years. (92)

Ultra Brut - 55% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir; zero dosage. Bright, medium deep yellow; beautiful perlage. Aromas of citrus peel, jasmine, orange pulp and a slight hint of brioche. Medium-full, with very good ripeness, good acidity and a well-balanced finish that is not too dry, with good persistence. This should pair well with most seafoods as well as lighter white meats. Enjoy over the next three to five years. (91)

Brut Millésimé 2012 - A blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir, this was aged on the lees for more than seven years; this cuvée is rarely produced; only 30 times since the 1950s. Expressive aromas of lemon curd, citrus peel, plum and bread, this is very rich on the palate, and offers lively acidity and a lengthy finish with distinct mineral notes. There is excellent complexity and fullness on the palate; this has enough character and weight to pair with rich dishes such as veal marsala or swordfish. Enjoy over the next six to eight years. (94)

Cuvée Rosé - One of the most famous examples of a rosé Champagne, this was initially produced by Laurent-Perrier in 1968, and has been a remarkable success ever since. 100% Pinot Noir - not typical for a rosé Champagne - and made in the saignée style; that is without the addition of still red wine - this has a bright deep pink color, excellent ripeness and beautiful overall harmony. Displaying lovely fresh fruit notes of raspberry, bing cherry and mandarin orange, this has a rich, elegantly styled finish that is dry and quite long. Here is a Champagne made for pairing with duck breast with a cherry or orange sauce, while it will also work beautifully with tuna. Enjoy this over the next five to seven years. (93) Note that Laurent-Perrier also makes a luxury, vintage-dated rosé Champagne named Cuvée Alexandra that is extraordinary; I will review that in an upcoming article.